Paul Hardcastle: hard samples from eighties... and without Garage Band ;)

This a new download from the iTunes store, made this morning, that remind me at the early eighties, purchasing this collection, including the top charts "19" and a set of very nice tunes like "Strollin", "Rain Forest" and another beater like "Moonhopper" my favorite at this moment... speed me right back to the early eighties night at Tam Tam...dancing all night long, chat with girls and experienced first cocktails... Those was the times!

A new table in my office

Recently I'm moved with the office.

It's was not only a move of my office, but a move of my life.
New house, new office, new lifestyle, new job method...

A new philosophy at all.
What I'm trying is to go on with a new process that was started about a years ago... convert my job process from "industrial" to "artisan"...
I think the early result are great and my customer are very satisfied...

So, putting again more and more quality, service and to pay attention at the small detail, that was already a philosophy for me, is enhanced in a process that put not only the customer at the best attention... but also me...

To celebrate this changement I have designed a new table to match my Eames Alu-Chair...
Another "artisan" made it for me... and this is the result...

I love it!

New Old Stock Glasses

The last Sunday of the month, near where I live theres' a very nice market of vintage, used and sometimes new old stock items, you can find interesting things and some bargains... here a perfect NOS frames from Zeiss West Germany from the 70's and maybe 80's they was sealed in the original packaging, and soon they will be equipped with yellow degradè lens (for the pilot type a very Lufthansa commander style!) and maybe brown for the "Bill Gates" style turtle model...

1€ each!!!

;)

A Giant Leap

Just a line to celebrate the first step on the moon and the Apollo 11 crew that made this possible. They have at their wrist the Omega Speedmaster Professional watches, exactly like those you will see in the picture I have made for this tribute. The reference of the true "moonwatch" was 145.012-67 and 105.012-65 both of them are in my collection and I'm proud to have those watches that remember me, every day, how incredible was the july 20, 1969 for all the citizens of the world.

Recently I have discover that I need a new pair of glasses to change with mine "Donald Fagen" style frames.
My research start looking if in my area there was some dealer of the famous brand Dita that make the best eye-wear in the world.

I was very pleased to discover that about 20 minutes from where I live, in the Riviera del Brenta area there's not only a dealer, but a beautiful concept store for the best brand of eye-wear ever seen: http://www.inawhitebox.com
The people in the "white box" was so kind and very friendly, it's clear they have good taste and deep knowledge, also they have enough dare to offer those kind of brands...(not easy at all) they let me try about thirty pieces of many brands... but finally my choice goes to the Dita "Statesman" model: a mix fof rétro design and modern technology, they use hand made manufacturing, micro etched titanium and a kind of finish that I never see on a pair of glasses, definitely the best.

Not happy I've choose the latest Lanvin design, with a taste of 60's that I think is very, very nice, especially in the material and colour... they remind me a Michael Caine picture of the 60's that I've seen recently.

Lanvin, is coming back very strong in the latest fashion collection and I think is one of the best brand, that are working a in a new direction for the menswear, they will fight the skinny, slim line and offer a new proportions for the man, that let the fit stay in touch with the body, without force you to lose about 20 kilo to be in "size" for the latest look. Also they explore a new conception for the "oversize" style that is based on the materials... shine, soft and very rich.

The Rolex Explorer I Ref. 1016

When talking about clean and minimal design, is impossible to don't write a couple of lines about the Rolex Explorer I Ref. 1016 design.
I have recently acquire this 1975-76 piece and I can't avoid to talk about the perfect balance of the dial design, the very minimal graphic and the impressive care of the details. It's come to me with a NATO military strap, that give him a strong professional look, but I have provide also a Ref. 7836 folded steel bracelet, correct for the age, that is important to complete this beauty.
The Explorer was first used in the Everest conquest, and in many other adventures from the south pole to the northern territory of Greenland.

I think the 3-6-9 digit at the quarters are some kind of archetype in watches design.
The balance of the rigorous tritium dial and the "mercedes" hands give another lesson in clean and perfectly shaped minimal design.
Indeed, this is a classic piece of design in watches, despite the perfect movement 1570 with hack that is inside, that give a perfect time, at the second, whenever you are: at the top of a mountain... or your annoying meeting @ 28th floor meeting room ;)

Suntory Whisky: A moment of Relax

Like good denim fabric, fine watches, or luxury cars, when Japanese make something at the top, they good the best one!
If you appreciate to have a moment of true relax, with clients, friends or just alone… then you have to try the Suntory Yamazaky 12 years old Single Malt Whisky.
I Like to offer to friends that come up in the office, or drink at the end of the day, when I need to have a moment just for me.

It's my perfect present for Christmas time for the best friends.

But at home, the absolute choice is the Hibiky 17 years old blended: my favorite.
His perfect balanced taste remind me the savor of wood, tobacco… His perfume is a fantastic experience… no wonder if remind me to think at Penhaligons or Diptyque eau de toilette…



Another reason to be a fan of Japanese product!

A Fine Paul Smith Jacket

This is another fine piece of design from Sir Paul Smith.

I've bought this jacket in my recent visit at the Paul Smith Jeans Shop of Covent Garden.
First of all I was captured by the style, the irregular pocket attract me because those details are a perfect signature of the Paul Smith design… he love to work on classic form, changing size, proportions and position, so we can have a new perspective when the jacket is worn on…

Color is also nice, a fine shade of very dark Grey, with red brown natural color buttons in combinations of the black press buttons for the pocket.
Another interesting point is the material. This jacket is made in a special nylon fabric, extremely light, but extremely protective. Water just simply slide on the surface of the material, wind have no chance to pass through the membrane that is coated inside the external shield… the result is a perfect warm and dry combination when you are out!
You can put this jacket in your travel bag, take a flight and wear when you arrive at destination: the special fabrics will be perfectly free of any wrinkle!

Just perfect for me!

Breakin' Away

Today I've finally received the CD's release of Al Jarreau "Breakin Away" album from 1981 ordered form a very kind eBay seller, and it's spinning right now on my CD player.

Listen the songs in this album bring me very, very far.
I was at a village fair in the evening, with some friends, some of those very clever… all us was more interested to new released like this that a local DJ friends was playing for us, than the girls that look at us: that night girls was not in first place of our thoughts! But Music was.

In the same time there was the George Benson release of "Give me the Night" single and many others… music those years was so smooth and so fine… in the clubs were we go with our friends a little bit older (do you remember the early wide legs jeans from Italian company BALL, flat red suede shoes and hawaiian shirts? That was the look!) and when the Boogie Oogie Oogie from "A Taste on Honey" was on the deck... oh guy's it was like a heaven on heart!

My Macintosh Plus

My Mac Plus is like an old friend for me. In the early days (I buy one, used, in the early 90's when other mac more faster was on the market, but with impossible prices!) he would help me to organize my thought, design my first lay out and print out in high resolution (yes, I have only a laserwriter 300!) when PC's was only a sort of ugly box with a black screen and amber graphic (if you can call graphic those letters and numbers!)and let the typographer astonished… oh, I forget to tell that they was using those Linotype machine, a kind of "frigidaire like" monster with a monitor and a keyboard where to write the letter "A" they must type some like :/HGT ""/ "A" or some like this!

Last night while working on my G5 desktop system… I have check it and is still very faster and ready, with is System 5.0.4 and no Hard Disk! Only 1 MB of Ram and his very fine keyboard that is a pleasure to use.


Thanks Steve! Those was the days!

Rosie Vela

Today I have decide to go deep in the old stuff that is inside one of my various storage box all around my very, very busy apartment… in the box of music tapes I have find a recording of "Zazu" an incredible album out, I think, in the last months of 1986, and performed by a former topmodel Rosie Vela.
This fantastic album was produced by Mr. Donald Fagen of Steely Dan, and this made Zazu a must for me.
I have try to search on the bay a copy of this album... but I have find only few vinyl's… uhmmm... I think it's time to buy a turntable again, it seems that this need becomes necessary day by day cause I have discovered also few interesting vinyl's in my stuff… one is very special and rare: a 7" single from the movie soundtrack "Bright Lights, Big City" performed by Mr. Donald Fagen and the title is "Century's End" never released, I think, on CD.
By the way, make a search and try to listen "Magic Smile" from Zazu, and tell me what do you think about it.

Aeron Chair

This week two new chairs are coming in the office. I have finally bought those chair from the Herman Miller Aeron series, because their perfect and outstanding quality and design, and, of course for the perfect ergonomic construction! I think those chairs will be perfect together the four vintage "Aluchair" that I already have!

6 JUNE 1944

This June, for the third time since 2006, I have take few days to come again in Normandy to bring my tribute to all the soldiers and civilian that was dead during one of the worst war theatre of the second world war.
As usual I have experienced a big emotion walking in the same place where thousand of person was died fighting for freedom.
One of the place where I was totally shocked was the Memorial of the Battle of Falaise Pocket, where hundreds of thousands of German soldiers was drive in a only three kilometres corridor and attacked by any side while they was escaping, it was the last battle of Normandy and more than 250.000 victims will leaved on the battlefield.
What really make me sad, was to see the pictures of the more than 5.000 horse dead, beautiful and regal horses, the most beautiful horses ever seen.
Even them they are dead, without any reason in the horror of war.
I have bring my simple tribute also to all them, I think they was truly innocent.

To remember and pay a tribute I will just post a picture of Omaha Beach, sector Dog-Green at 6:30AM

Finally I'm here again...

Literally the last six months they was so hard for me.

I have to change lot of strategy for my work, study new perspectives and make a fine tuning of my vision for the future in the fashion system.
This kept lot of time, lot of study, lot of effort... but finally I'm here.
I have not change at all my idea that the future in the fashion system, especially in the denim and jeans oriented market, where I'm a specialist, will be the great attention to quality, to research and of course to keep a strong identity.
Here in Italy, the "motor" is starting again, slow and not trust by all the company (who not trust is definitely in the road of decline) but who is trusting to this vision is going on and I think they will be next succes case in the future.
My customer believe in me and they have approved my idea to get strong in their identity and fight to make quality, research and dare in the product...
Of course there will be some that have not trust in me and they have loose the opportunity to be stronger in this very hard market.

Let's go on...

The New MacBook Air

Yesterday Apple Computer have released the new MacBook Air.

I have follow the Steve Jobs Keynote, connected via iChat with my fellows Max and Chuck, they provide me opinions and support to help me to see the keynote due to my low band connection. Thanks!

The New MBA is something that let me astonishing.
I've dream about a Mac like this for years, and now I'm so ready to put one in my bag...

Just a question: PATA Hard Drive or Solid State?

The price will make the difference, but I'm sure that Apple have opened the road to Solid State technology and soon the only options available will be SSD. So my opinion (this morning) is: wait a little bit and see what happen...

But can I really bear this wait?

Designing the perfection

When I think about something that I really can define “perfect” I must look at the Omega Speedmaster Professional, a tool watch for the connoisseurs.

So far to be a watch for fashion victims, the Speedmaster is a unique example of the old saying “the function determines the design” and infact the NASA choose this watch after a very hard series of test to prove the performance under the worst condition (imagine only the temperature changing from the direct sunlight to the shadow in the space) of some of the most know watches in the early sixties, many of them was refused (and, yes, also the Rolex was in the list…) and finally the winner will have the opportunity to be the first watch on the moon at the wrist of Astronaut Neil Armstrong.

It’s a simple piece of design, that well explain how much important is to “balance” your pencil when you approach to design something new and fresh… and not only in watchmaking, but also in any other field of design.

Some fine example? The “Alu” Chair of Ray Eames, the Chrome Limited Edition Luxo lamp made in the early 90’s, the Levi’s 501, The Leatherman Tools, The Airfix Figures of 60’s and 70’s…

A Very Fine Military Blouse

This is one of my favorite, it's a tropical female military blouse produced by Compton, Sons & Webb Ltd. from the R.A.F and it's dated from around 1965. I have buy this blouse as my intention to make deeper research about female military garments.

It's no easy to find female military issued clothing, but to discover one is always a great find.

The R.A.F. Blosue is very rare and have a intonse beautiful labelling with all the issue inscriptions, also the hand-stamp mark is very nice and interesting.



Note the sought after fabric wich is made this blouse: it's a satin-based weave, with a kind of micro design on the surface, I have never seen this fabric before, and I'm tryng to reproduce it with one of my fellows friends that own a fabric company.

The neck also is interesting, it miss the back and the two lapels are inserted in the cut of shoulder.

The Importance Of My Archive

Sometimes, when I go in the basement of my office, and I see a load of old military and workwear garments on the shelter I ask me what I will be now without the knowledge provide me from all these old garments.

My archive is not so wide, few hundred pieces maybe. I know some other "colleague" that have thousands of items stored! But is funny to see that many of those designers and so many other product managers from the company love to buy clothes from other brands just to copy.
They don't care to study and discover what's inside a old garment, they just prefer to buy the competitors items and copy as well they can. In the school where I have teached for more than a decades I have try to teach to my student the importance to learn from past, to catch what's is inside the details of a old garment, they love to discover how many ideas there's inside a old Field Jacket, they love to see how many inspiration they can get from a pair of old work trousers… maybe from a mechanic of R.A.F or a specialist of LUFTWAFFE.

Archives are the real ace in the hand of a designers, but to build a good archive is not easy.

First of all, you need the knowledge. It's not enough to go around the world, load of money and buy all the things that catch your eyes, or, going in the best shop and buy the latest fashion news.
The knowledge comes from a deep research in books, other archives, not necessarily about fashion…but, the most important, the knowledge is something you have to feel inside of you, somebody call it "poetry", other call it "romanticism"… I don't know.
I have build my archive in about fifth-teen years, many of the items was personal second hand clothes that i have buy for myself, others comes from common thrifty stores and markets.
The best Items I have are the military garments from the second world war, especially from the D-DAY, that I have buy in Normandy, last June... apart form the rarity, they have a special feeling coming from the place they are coming, some are impossible to find, some are more common, but the place where I have find them give something more to this pieces.

Going around in the Normandy I have seen lots of military clothing in the museum and collect so many information, that any research trip in the best capitals of the world can't give.

So, going back in my office, from the basement, keeping in my hands my small book of ideas full of new concepts to developing, I always think how much of this poetry and opportunity are loosing who is just thinking that copy a clothes is the better way to give the customer what they need.

A Simple Pair Of Glasses

These are my new glasses. I was searching for some new frames from a long time. I was tired of the squared, bold and heavy frames, is usually to see on the nose of designers, architects… and fashion victims, of course.
I have seen these glasses for the first time in the back of the cover of the last album of Donald Fagen, Morph The Cat.
Mr. Fagen is well know for his understated elegance and for the clear concept of style he have from the early days.

He put this glasses on a windows of a loft, where you can see some end of Manhattan.
This image capture me, and listening the CD give me the finishing stroke!

It was no easy to find it, but finally I find this model from a company called EPOS-MILANO and I think it's perfect.

I love the rounded lines, and the turtle shades on the new frames, they are a little bit 80's style, in fact I remember that when I was thirteen I own a pair a frames like this…

My New Stole

Few days ago, my friend Tom from the 45RPM shop of Paris, send to me some pics of the new stoles they are just receiving from Japan. I have choose this one, and yesterday it's coming to me.

I love the basic colours, the softness of the wool, the perfect size.

This stole is perfect for that cold days of november. I love the simplicity of the checks, it remind me the old artisan and farmers of the place where I leave. I love the way they dress.
They wear older classic elegant coats and simple striped shirts, but used and abused, and instead to throw away they put on for work. They wear simple work trousers in a shade of blue that is coming from the industrial workers, a perfect shade of blue, it's like an indigo, but more brilliant. They always wear a hat. Is a simple hat in Herringbone Twill, Prince of Wales Checks, or plain Brown.

Sometimes, they wear a stole like this.

The boots they wear sometimes are very dirty, but they dont' care, they show a kind of elegance that is very difficult to see.